What makes this expedition stand out? The flexibility to plan with, and not against, prevailing conditions, a team with the skills to handle a wide range of conditions and a location that is as wild and remote as it is starkly beautiful. This is our definitive sea kayaker's expedition for experienced paddlers who want to join a small like-minded group on a real expedition that has the ability to really explore this incredible and magical area.
Objective
An experienced team removes all the barrs: the expedition will have full rein to explore the region and the flexibility to fully take advantage of current conditions (see section on ice below) - perhaps we'll head north through the complex of fjords and islands to reach the head of Sermiligaq fjord, the location of 5 tide-water glaciers; or NW, making the open-water crossing of Angmagssalik fjord, then through the long and narrow Ikasartivaq fjord, to reach Sermilik - a waterway always full of vast quantities of ice. We love this area, and relish the chance to show the expedition team some of the many 'hidden gems' we've found over the years; there's the spit of land that lies at the meeting of two fjords, where we've sat in wonder on numerous occasions as several fin whales feed only 10s of metres from the shore; or the hidden and suprisingly verdant valley that culminates in a gorge and waterfall.
Why the East Coast?
To the indigenous Inuit, East Greenland is known as Tunu, translated as 'the Land at the Back'; the vast majority of Greenland's population live on the West Coast, only several thousand inhabiting a couple of settlements amidst the vast wilderness of the East Coast. This wild and remote coastline is made up of complexes of fjords, mountains and glaciation - an arctic environment suprisingly rich in flora and fauna.
The expedition will take place amongst this grandeur, starting from the tiny Inuit settlement of Kulusuk, one of the outermost islands, and working deeper into the fjords. The outer islands are stark and rocky, but as we get further inland, the climate softens and so the shores become increasingly green.
Ice Navigation
A current runs south down the East Coast, carrying pack ice (frozen, then broken, sea ice) from the Arctic Ocean and icebergs calved from glaciers further to the north. The quantities of ice tend to lessen in August, but can vary greatly from year to year; sometimes we must carefully pick our way through a maze of pack ice, whilst at others, the fjords are open, with only large icebergs stranded on the sea bed. The ice dampens down any swell, but also presents a unique set of challenges. A wide course must be taken around icebergs and boats pulled up high each night as their unpredictable and sudden collapse can create big waves. In heavy pack-ice conditions, narrow fjords create 'chokes' where tidal and wind action can dangerously constrict the ice. Timing is therefore of utmost importance.
Camping around Inuit tent circles
One of the really magical aspects of paddling in East Greenland are the wonderful camps that are established each night, nestled amongst the dwarf willows with views of the iceberg-studded fjords. We always look for a stream and then something more; a special location that also seems protected from the elements. It's uncanny how often we find the tent rings of old Inuit camps in such sites - a link across centuries to a people who also paddled these waters.