Exploratory Mountaineering in East Greenland

The settlement of Skaergard, wildly isolated between the villages of the Cape Farewell region and Tasiilaq, itself an outpost, lies in a fjord system that cuts deep into the mountainous, glaciated country of the East Coast.  Its sheer isolation led to its abandonment and a section of coastline made up of some of the most exciting mountains has thus been left virtually untouched – a tantalising prospect that has driven us to solve the considerable logistical challenges of accessing this mountain haven, protected as it is by sheer distance and the band of pack ice that flows southwards down the East Coast.

We now have a boat capable of travelling the 250km south and in August ’09, when the pack ice should allow passage, we’ll set off from our Base in Kulusuk and be dropped off with enough equipment and supplies to set up camp and explore.  A shoreside basecamp will be established that allows access onto the glacier systems.  We then have the option of either making light and fast day trips or carrying more equipment in to stay on the glaciers for days at a time (it also makes for an beautiful camp in which to relax between ascents and fish for dinner).  We’re looking for classic, moderate and aesthetic lines that lead to great summits but this trip’s also a chance for those looking for harder objectives for themselves.

We’ve also come up with the idea of taking along a Zodiac, a small inflatable motor boat, so that we not only have the option of heading up the glaciers behind camp but of searching out other objectives from the water.

A well stocked basecamp, hundreds of kilometres of isolation and a mountain range with enough first ascent potential for a lifetime are all essential ingredients in our idea of a dream trip.  If you have a sense of adventure and are excited by the same things, please get in contact.

This is a seriously exploratory expedition – we know  that the area is dominated by a big range of shapely glaciated peaks - these were spotted from the sea and further investigated from aerial photos.  The plan, and indeed the point, of this expedition is to arrive in the area and find our objectives when we get there.  Before the team ascends a metre from basecamp, our exploratory trip will have begun; the first mountain to attempt will undoubtedly be identified from the boat.  Without guidebooks or previous reports, the process of climbing a mountain is quite different: we'll first look at access to the peak (which glacier do we follow; which morraine?), then at the descent, and only then, if we're happy with both of those, the line of ascent.  A natural rhythm soon develops, as we ascend one peak, and in doing so, gain an oversight that makes picking the next mountain to ascend, the next glacier to explore, a big point of interest on each summit - alot like piecing together a jigsaw.

To suit the composition of the team, our main focus will be on classic, moderate, alpine-style ascents.  Such climbing is likely to be on the mixed ridges that are such a feature of Greenlandic arctic mountaineering.  If you would like to undertake something more difficult, then you also have the option of climbing independently from the main group.

In any case, it’s essential that each team member brings along a sense of adventure and a strong desire to explore; on an expedition of this nature, every element of the trip is a step into the unknown, from finding a suitable site for the basecamp and finding our way around the big glaciers to the ascents themselves.

As we plan to explore a large area, instead of spending days in carrying all the equipment high onto the glacier system, the basecamp will be sited on the shores of the fjord.  This will maximise our time in the region as very little time will be dedicated to carrying in or out.  The team will have the opportunity to make light and fast day trips or to hike in enough equipment for 2-4 days at a time.  We're motivated to squeeze in as many mountain days as possible, but for those that want to take a break, rest days spent reading and fishing are always possible and the basecamp location is just magic for this; instead of being in a high alpine and snowy environment, the shore-side camp will be nestled in amongst arctic vegetation with views out over the icebergs.

The main focus of camp will be the big double-walled Mountain Hardwear Stronghold tent where we can cook and relax in the evenings.  We'll also take along a number of smaller mountain tents to sleep in.

As we should be able to set up camp at the point where the boat drops the team off, we can also take in plenty of supplies, so food rationing shouldn't be a feature of this expedition!

Greenland’s arctic climate and land/icescape can change quickly and because of this, our plans are completely dictated by the elements.  We'll do all we can to ensure the success of the expedition, but to suit prevailing conditions, may have to delay or even change the plans at short notice.  Get ready for an advanture and come prepared for the unexpected!

Day 1

Flight from your home country to Keflavik, Iceland’s International Airport (not included in price).  Overnight in a Reykjavik guesthouse.

Day 2

Fly from Reykjavik Domestic airport to Kulusuk, East Greenland.  We’ll overnight in a simple mountain-style hut.  In the afternoon we’ll sort through the expedition equipment and have a little time to explore this typical Greenlandic hunting settlement.

Day 3 - 4

All gear onboard the boat and an early start from the village harbour.  The skipper will set course and follow the coastline southwards, negotiating icebergs and areas of pack ice.  Within 50km, we're going to be traversing an extremely wild and remote shoreline, much of which is dominated by the Icecap which calves directly into the sea.  A journey not often undertaken, we'll gain a rare glimpse into some of the least explored mountain ranges on Earth and the expedition guides will definitely be on the look-out for new expedition areas! 

The length of the journey will be dictated by ice conditions: relatively clear and we could be down there within 24 hours; more ice, and it may take up to 48.

Day 4

As we enter our expedition area, the binoculars will be out as we look for the most exciting mountains, and then a basecamp location located so that we can gain easy access to those peaks.  After unloading the boat and saying goodbye to our last link with civilisation, we'll be left alone to set up basecamp.

Day 5 - 17

Time to explore!  

Day 18 - 19

With the basecamp packed up, we'll watch out for the arrival of the boat.  Once it's arrived, we'll stow the gear and get underway.  After an active expedition, such a journey makes for a relaxing re-adjustment to arriving back into civilisation.  Once back in the village, we'll overnight in the same hut as used upon our arrival in Kulusuk.

Day 20

Today we’ll pay our farewells to this unique arctic world, flying from Kulusuk back over the Denmark Strait to Iceland.   Clear weather allows one last magic glimpse of the mountainous wilderness we’ve just spent the last days exploring.  Back in Reykjavik, we’ll overnight in a guesthouse with the chance to explore, this time the very different environment of the bars and clubs of Iceland’s capital city.  A very different experience!

Day 21

Transfer back to the international airport and the end of a memorable journey in the North.