An authentic and traditional Inuit dogsled journey deep into the arctic wilderness of East Greenland -  a land that stretches over 2500km from the south the north, made up of vast glaciers, mountain ranges, fiords and amidst all of this, a population of less than 3000 indigenous Greenlandic Inuit.  We will be joining hunters and their dog teams on the kind of trip that is used to reach remote settlements and hunting grounds.  Our aim is go far beyond the tourist trail.  The exact route will only be planned as we travel, an essential facet of life in this beautiful but demanding environment.  If the sea ice is thin, we’ll take to the islands.  Whilst conditions can be sublime, they can also be as challenging as an arctic storm gets, but with the right equipment, this trip is within the bounds of those looking for an adventure.

Conditions allowing, we’ll traverse the old dogsled routes, crossing glaciated islands and travelling down the frozen fiords that cut a swathe through dramatic gneiss mountain spires to visit some of the remotest communities in the outermost regions of Tunu (in Greenlandic, ' the land at the back’)

Whilst it takes many years of work to drive a dog team alone, you will have the opportunity to help in the day’s travel, whether that be braking the sled, untangling the traces or looking after the dogs after the day’s run. 

As well as the hunters, you’ll be joined by an expert in polar and arctic travel who will be able to explain many of the intricacies of survival and life up in the north.

On this journey, we’ll not only travel into one of the remotest areas on Earth, but also to a much simpler way of life about as far removed as can be imagined from the busy cultures of Europe and America.

East Greenland in Spring

Known as Tunu (translates as 'Land at the Back') by the Greenlandic Inuit, the name refers to the East Coast's extreme isolation - a vast arctic wilderness that supports a surprisingly rich population of animals, from seals and whales to polar bears. Of Greenland's population of 57,000, only 4000 live in a handful of settlement s on a coastline that runs 3000km from south to north. The first trading colony was only established in the 1890's, and to this day, the local population keep alive many of the ancient ways of life used to survive in this beautiful but severe environment.  

The land itself is squeezed between the Icecap that dominates Greenland’s interior and the frigid seas that carry the ice of the Arctic Ocean south on the East Greenlandic current.  The coastline is deeply incised by fjords and dominated by many thousands of glaciated mountains, many of which remain unclimbed.  

You will be flying from Iceland over the Denmark Strait to one of the outermost islands of the Tunu region.  As well as the 'international airport' (think snow strip and small arrivals building), Kulusuk island is also home to a tiny village, home to around 250, many of whom still still subsistence hunt.

In summer, the flora of the region briefly but spectacularly blooms, but in the months of winter and spring, the land is blanketed by snow, and the sea, a thick layer of ice.  Such hard conditions would suggest that this is a time to wait out the weather, but it’s precisely the cold that made this a great time of travel for the Inuit; communities and hunting grounds many miles away could be linked by the smooth surfaces of the frozen fjords -  the same conditions that open up the possibilities of this tour.

From the village, we'll travel out onto the sea ice of the fjords and explore further inland, around some of the many glaciated, mountainous islands that lie to the NW

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If you haven't visited the Arctic before, East Greenland's land and icescape is overwhelming; a completely alien set of features dominate the coastline.  For those who are familiar with the North, the Tunu Region presents a distillation of all that is spectacular about the high latitudes.

Greenland's Coastal Sea Ice

First and foremost, it's the skin of ice that forms over the fjords that allows this expedition to take place.  As opposed to the challenging drifting ice of the Arctic Ocean, the fjords of the region lock the ice fast, making for a smooth, generally thick surface.  However, the expertise of the Inuit dogsled mushers is essential; their experience means we steer a wide course around the areas of dangerous thin ice, often hard to identify, caused by underwater currents.

East Greenland's Icebergs

As opposed to pack ice (fragments of old sea ice), icebergs are fragments of the inland glaciers that have calved into the waters of the sea.  In summer, these often colossal pieces of ice drift with the currents and tides.  On entering the fjords, they sometimes ground on underwater reefs and are caught until the next spring tide.  If they're grounded when the ice of winter forms over the sea, then they remain held fast until the following summer.  Our journey often leads us around these fantastically-shaped towers.

Arctic Mountains & Glaciers

East Greenland's coastline is rarely low-angled; peaks rise almost directly out of the sea in sinuous walls of inter-connecting ridges and faces.  Alpine in character, the gneiss/granite spires act as navigational aids as we cross the largest fjords.  It's not so long since the icecap that dominates Greenland's interior retreated from the coastline and many of the mountainous islands still carry big glaciers.  There are several camp locations that lie beside the vertical calving faces of these glaciers - the same faces that in summer produce icebergs.

In the remote regions in which we plan to travel, it's rare to find any of the small hunting huts that are built nearer the villages.  This means that camping is going to be an essential part of the trip.  With the right equipment and techniques, this is much more comfortable than one may initially expect!  We'll take along a basecamp tent and a heater for comfortable evenings - this will not only offer a place to relax but also the opportunity to stay up when the sun goes down; cloud cover allowing, as soon as the skies grow dark, we will have the chance to see the Aurora Borealis - seen over a white and empty landscape, quite a haunting experience.

To sleep, we'll also have a number of extremely strong mountain tents that, together with a good sleeping bag, offer a comfortable night's sleep.

Greenlandic Dogsledding

Greenland is one of the last few places on Earth where dogsledding continues to be practiced and used on an every-day basis, in much the same way as it has been for many hundreds of years.  The techniques, equipment, and dogs themselves, differ from those used in Canada.  On the East Coast of Greenland, dogsledding survives as an essential part of subsistence hunting out on the sea ice and also provides an extra income from the small group of people that visit in the spring to experience this ancient practice.

The Greenlandic Sled & Traces

Sleds vary in size and design between different areas in Greenland; in the NW, around Qaanaaq, they're often very big to suit the long journeys undertaken on the flat surfaces of the sea ice; further south, on the West Coast, the sea ice is far less reliable, forcing the locals to take to the steep mountain passes - the sleds are thus narrow and have a series of chains strung from the back that can be stood on to break the sled when sliding at alarming rates down the mountain slopes.  On the East Coast, conditions dictate a mid-sized sled that can carry lots of equipment on longer journeys but that can still tackle the passes used to link different fjords (either as a short-cut or because of thin ice).  On the back of the East Greenlandic sleds, a metal claw is used to break.

In all the regions mentioned, instead of the Canadian system where dogs run in a line of pairs to suit the closely forested terrain, Greenlandic dogs run in fan formation: each dog has a trace (traditionally a length of skin, but now more commonly nylon rope - the dogs used to eat their traces!) that goes directly to the sled.  The traces are varied in length so that the lead dog can run out in front.  This system suits the wide open spaces of Greenland and allows the dogs to socialise, moving their position in the pack.

Riding Position

When driving through complex terrain, from rough pack ice to passes and also when in villages, the musher rides on the back of the sled to keep close control of speed and direction.  Once out on the sea ice, the driver and passengers then lie on the body of the sled.  On hills, and sometimes in bad snow conditions, it's necessary to walk and help push the sled.

Greenland Huskies

Although varying widely in appearence from the big fluffy-haired dogs that are so beloved to the lean, short coat dogs that often make up the fastest teams, Greenlandic huskies are a distinct breed.  Although often friendly, it's important to remember that they can be very fierce, particularly when fighting or around food, so it's essential to be on your guard and closely follow the instructions of the mushers.  It takes years to build up a working relationship with the pack, but you can learn much by following the actions of the expert locals.  The dogs love heading out into the fjords and their excitement often means that the first 10 minutes can be fast!

Care of the Dogs

The dogs are extremely tough and completely used to living in a cold snowy environment - they spend their whole lives outside.  When overnighting out on the sea ice, the pack is tethered to a chain and when really cold, a hole dug for each dog in which they sleep.  After a hard day's hauling they're fed on either seal meat or dried biscuits, but when not working only every couple of days.  This has been an essential part of survival so that when hunting fails one day, the dogs can still continue.

These are working dogs and certainly not pets, but for a team to work efficiently, they must be cared for and fed properly.

Greenland’s arctic climate and land/icescape can change quickly and because of this, our plans are completely dictated by the elements.  Over the years that we’ve spent in the Fjordlands, it’s become clear that a flexible plan is essential and indeed a fundamental part of life in the High North.  Changes or alterations made at very short notice are thus an inherent part of this expedition.  It’s this factor that makes a trip to Greenland so exciting – be prepared for the unexpected!

Day 1: Arrive in Iceland

Flight from your home country to Keflavik, Iceland’s International Airport (not included in price).  Overnight in a Reykjavik guesthouse.

Day 2: Fly from Iceland to Greenland

Fly from Reykjavik Domestic airport to Kulusuk, East Greenland.  We’ll overnight in a simple mountain-style hut.  In the afternoon we’ll have time to sort through the expedition equipment and to explore the typical Greenlandic hunting settlement.

Day 3: Learning arctic skills/Dogsledding to Apusiajiik Glacier calving ice face.

A day getting used to the arctic environment and looking into the systems we'll use on the main trip.  The expedition guide will demonstrate some important survival techniques and go over the main points of Greenlandic dogsledding before heading out on a journey over the sea ice to the calving face of Apusiajik Glacier.  We'll return to the village in the evening and overnight as on Day 2.  This 'trial-run' of a fuller expedition day will give everyone the opportunity to refine their clothing systems before heading out in earnest; one of the most important factors is to find a way of regulating your temperature between the active work of the more technical sections (ie. hills and rough ground) and the inactivity of travelling over the smooth sea ice.

Day 4 – 8: Dogsled into the wilds of East Greenland

With all the equipment required to be fully self-sufficient, we'll leave the village behind and drop down onto the sea ice, following the fjords inland.  As described in the expedition summary, we plan to travel into some the wildest and remote of regions, which will lead us on a route through some incredible & unique terrain.  As with any journey undertaken by the local Inuit, our exact route will depend on conditions.  We hope to visit one of the two tiny settlements that require days of travel to reach.  Each night, camp will be established and we'll have the chance to relax in the heated basecamp tent, all the while keeping a look-out for the Aurora Borealis or Northern Lights. 

Day 8: Evening return to the hotel

After a full five days out on the Ice, we'll complete our journey and again reach Kulusuk Island.  Our last evening together will be spent in the warmth of the hotel.  Rarely do you appreciate a hot shower more!

Day 9: Fly Greenland - Iceland

Today we’ll pay our farewells to this unique arctic world, flying from Kulusuk back over the Denmark Strait to Iceland.   Clear weather allows one last magic glimpse of the mountainous wilderness we’ve just spent the last days exploring.  Back in Reykjavik, we’ll overnight in a guesthouse with the chance to explore, this time the very different environment of the bars and clubs of Iceland’s capital city.  A very different experience!

Day 10: Transfer to International Airport

Transfer back to the international airport and the end of a memorable journey in the North.

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Whilst you're there, extend your stay and explore Iceland. A completely different landscape and culture, there's much to experience, from the geo-thermally heated natural swimming pools, to the geysirs and waterfalls of the SW.  Please contact us for more info on this.