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Expedition Basecamp:
B1262 3915 Kulusuk East Greenland
After a late finish on Lucky Streak the night before, Kris Munckel, a talented young climber from Florida, and I headed for a dash up Cathedral Peak and the subsidiary summit, Eichorn's Pinnacle. Classic low grade alpine rock climbing that we could run up in Scarpa approach shoes with a light rack and one rope.
Matt and Kris Munckel on the summit of Cathedral Peak
This past October was my first time in Yosemite, so I had both a lot to do and learn. After a summer of UK trad climbing and expedition work in East Greenland (and next to no time clipping bolts on sport routes), my head was in the right space for run-outs and complex ropework but the big unknown was always going to be the infamous jamming and offwidth cracks of the Valley. First up was the moderate classic Central Pillar of Frenzy with my good friends Michiel and Rixt - bit of a change of scene since our last climbing together, huh Michiel?! Pitch upon pitch of magic cracks, from fingers up to offwidth. Loved it! Next up was one of the most monumental rain/thunderstorms I've ever experienced; it seemed to travel in a tight circle above our campsite...
Lucky Streak, Fairview Dome
About Matt Spenceley
Sites I'm looking at:
Swiss avalanche forecasts
Dirtbag Diaries
Alpinist magazine
Alpine briefs
Menno Boermans - mountain photographer
Michiel Engelsman - Heli-skiing in Switzerland & beyond
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